The REAU-amsterdam Standard for Ingredient Transparency for Professionals
This glossary outlines key active and functional ingredients used across our formulations. Each entry includes:
INCI name(per EU Regulation No. 1223/2009)
Primary cosmetic function
Origin (plant-based / synthetic / biotech)
Usage concentration (typical range)
Safety + regulatory notes
Understanding and selecting effective ingredients in skincare routines is crucial for achieving optimal results.
A
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Soothing agent, humectant
Origin: Organic plant extract
Usage: 5–20%
Notes: Certified organic available. Supports hydration and post-treatment recovery. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is excellent for sensitive skin and helps maintain a healthy skin barrier.
Allantoin
Skin protectant, keratolytic
Origin: Biotech-derived
Usage: 0.2–0.5%
Notes: Listed as OTC skin protectant (EU + FDA). Excellent for sensitive or compromised skin.
B
Bakuchiol
Retinol alternative, anti-aging
Origin: Plant-based (Psoralea corylifolia)
Usage: 0.5–1%
Notes: Clinically backed. Requires formulation stability support. Bakuchiol also supports collagen production, which is essential for maintaining skin firmness and reducing signs of aging.
Betaine
Osmoprotectant, moisturizer
Origin: Sugar beet fermentation
Usage: 1–5%
Notes: Excellent for barrier repair and hydration balance.
C
Centella Asiatica Extract
Wound healing, anti-inflammatory
Origin: CO2 or water extract
Usage: 0.5–2%
Notes: High in asiaticoside. Calms irritated skin. Effective in treating eczema due to its anti-inflammatory properties.
Coco-Glucoside
Non-ionic surfactant
Origin: Coconut + glucose
Usage: 3–10%
Notes: Ultra-mild. Baby care-safe. Biodegradable.
D
D-Panthenol (Provitamin B5)
Moisturizer, skin barrier support
Origin: Biotech
Usage: 1–5%
Notes: Supports barrier and hydration post-acid use. D-Panthenol also reduces irritation and redness, making it suitable for sensitive skin.
E
Ectoin
Anti-pollution, stress protection
Origin: Fermented from extremophile bacteria
Usage: 0.5–2%
Notes: Shields skin from oxidative and environmental stress. Ectoin also helps protect against sun damage, contributing to overall skin health.
G
Glycerin (Vegetable origin)
Humectant, stabilizer
Origin: Plant-based
Usage: 2–10%
Notes: EU-compliant. Supports hydration and preservation.
Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract
Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory
Origin: Water or ethanol extracted
Usage: 0.1–3%
Notes: Rich in EGCG. Supports calming and firming. Acts as a protective antioxidant, helping to combat free radical damage.
H
Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid)
Hydrator, plumper
Origin: Fermentation-derived
Usage: 0.01–1%
Notes: Multi-weight complex preferred. Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid) also improves skin texture by enhancing hydration and plumping the skin.
J
Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia Chinensis)
Emollient, lipid balancer
Origin: Cold-pressed
Usage: 3–10%
Notes: Mimics sebum. Excellent for oily or acne-prone skin. Jojoba Oil also supports collagen production, which is essential for maintaining skin elasticity and overall appearance.
L
Lactic Acid
AHA exfoliant, brightener
Origin: Plant fermentation
Usage: 1–10%
Notes: Requires pH balancing. Brightens and renews. Promotes cell turnover, leading to improved skin texture and reduced signs of aging.
N
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Barrier booster, tone corrector
Origin: Synthetic
Usage: 2–10%
Notes: Well-tolerated. Pair with zinc for acne-prone skin. Niacinamide also minimizes pores, strengthens the skin barrier, and reduces inflammation.
R
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil (Rosehip)
Emollient, antioxidant
Origin: Cold-pressed
Usage: 3–8%
Notes: Supports scar repair and tone. Sensitive to oxidation. Additionally, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil (Rosehip) is effective in treating dark spots and improving skin tone.
S
Squalane (Plant-based)
Emollient, lipid restorer
Origin: Sugarcane or olive
Usage: 1–10%
Notes: Non-comedogenic. Silky skin feel. Squalane mimics the skin's natural oils, enhancing hydration and improving the skin's appearance.
Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii)
Occlusive, nourishing
Origin: Raw/refined butter
Usage: 3–15%
Notes: Strengthens emulsions. Deep nourishment for dry skin.
T
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
Antioxidant, preservative booster
Origin: Sunflower
Usage: 0.1–1%
Notes: Stabilizes oils. Improves skin elasticity. Tocopherol (Vitamin E) also helps combat fine lines and wrinkles by improving skin elasticity.
Tea Tree Oil (Melaleuca Alternifolia)
Antimicrobial
Origin: Steam-distilled
Usage: <1%
Notes: Use with caution. Check regional allergen limits.
Z
Zinc PCA
Sebum regulator, antimicrobial
Origin: Zinc salt of PCA
Usage: 0.1–1%
Notes: Ideal for blemish-prone skin. Balances without drying.
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